---
type: Place
title: Mazar-i-Sharif
description: Northern Afghan city around the Blue Mosque — clean, friendly bazaars where Harry played cricket, tried kohl eyeliner, and met relentless hospitality.
tags: [mazar-i-sharif, afghanistan, mosque, market]
coordinates: {lat: 36.7090, lng: 67.1114}
timestamp: 2026-07-12T12:00:00Z
---

# Mazar-i-Sharif

City in northern [Afghanistan](/countries/afghanistan.md) whose name Harry's
guide renders as "tomb of the respected" — pilgrims come to honour the
prophet Ali, held by local tradition to be buried at the famous Blue Mosque.
Harry found the city notably clean compared with much of Asia, and its
bazaars reminiscent of Pakistani ones.

## What Harry did

Wandered the fruit-and-rug markets greeting an endless stream of friendly
locals, had a vendor apply traditional kohl (surma) eyeliner — used by some
men on Fridays, not just as women's makeup — played cricket with local kids
(Afghanistan had just beaten England), bought a baby swing for an unemployed
man recently deported from Turkey, visited the Blue Mosque and talked with
Quran students there, and watched blocks of imported ice being cut on the
street. He also saw the hard side: many children under ten working the
market rather than going to school.

## Practical facts

- The Blue Mosque is the city's centrepiece and pilgrimage draw.
- The bazaars are safe-feeling and extremely welcoming, but keep the camera
  off women and don't linger filming in one spot.
- A child's baby swing cost 2,000 (from video – unverified) — a sense of
  local prices.

## Harry's tips

- Say yes to the small cultural experiences — the kohl eyeliner made Harry
  look "like he'd been in a fight", but it broke the ice with everyone.
- Join the street cricket; it's an instant connection in a cricket-mad
  country.

## Source

- [7 Days in the Most Dangerous Country in the World 🇦🇫](/videos/IXFVJx6BZ_Y.md) —
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXFVJx6BZ_Y