---
type: Video
title: "Why I LOVE Sri Lanka (Sinharaja Forest) 🇱🇰"
description: Two days in a rainforest lodge reached by Land Rover with no phone signal — lunch off a banana leaf, a 4 km hike past a wasp nest, a smallholding's goats, and an unofficial walk through a working tea factory.
tags: [sri-lanka, sinharaja, rainforest, tea, hiking, farming, unesco]
timestamp: 2026-08-06T18:30:00Z
resource: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7M_Noig4i9w
video_id: 7M_Noig4i9w
upload_date: 2022-03-17
duration: 2669
---

# Why I LOVE Sri Lanka (Sinharaja Forest) 🇱🇰

Two days at a lodge in the hills near
[Sinharaja Forest](/places/sinharaja-forest.md), with [Mac](/people/mac.md),
[Ali](/people/ali.md) and another creator — and the last substantial stop of the
Sri Lanka series.

*Obs: Harry says at the top that the group was **invited** to stay, and the lodge's
booking details are in the video description. Under the bundle's rule on
advertising the accommodation is described but not named, and this page records
what the stay involved rather than where it was.*

## Getting there

- **A couple of hours from the nearest road worth the name**, part of it off-road,
  and they need a Land Rover for the track.
- **No phone signal at all**, which Harry — who has spent the trip hunting for
  wi-fi — treats as the selling point.

## The lodge, as an idea

The provider isn't named; the format is worth recording because it isn't common
in the country:

- **Individual pyramid-shaped huts** on two floors, each with its own wi-fi.
- **An infinity pool facing the mountains**, which he calls the best he has swum
  in.
- **A yoga and meditation deck**, unused because there were too few guests for
  classes.
- **Tea plantations directly below**, with pickers working them — leaves collected
  into a sack slung from a strap across the forehead.
- **Full board with staff cooking to order**, which is the part he thanks them for
  at the end.

## Eating off a banana leaf

Lunch is served in clay pots onto **a banana leaf**, eaten by hand, with a bowl of
water for the fingers: **rice, chicken, salad, beetroot, dal and a poppadum-like
cracker**. It is his first time doing either, and his verdict is that hands feel
wrong for about a minute and then don't.

**Milk rice** turns up again at breakfast, and he says it improves every time he
eats it.

## The smallholding

A working farm along the track, and the group is simply invited in.

- **Goats, kept for milk** — the farmer's own explanation, and he stresses the
  protein.
- **Cows, dogs, and a wild jungle fowl**, which Harry spends some time trying and
  failing to pick up. It is, as the others point out, a chicken.
- **The goats live under the house**, with the babies inside it.

## The hike

Driven about 20 minutes uphill, then **about 4 km on foot**, past phone masts and
a naval base — which he notes is an odd place for one.

- **A bee or wasp nest across the path**, which their guide says is genuinely
  dangerous. They pass it in silence, twice, going up and coming back.
- **A hairy caterpillar he is warned is poisonous** — don't touch.
- **Monkeys audible below the lookout**, and a sheer drop off it that makes him
  step back.
- **The lookout is in and out of cloud**, and he decides he prefers the fog to the
  view.
- **Their guide says almost nobody comes here** — some days a few visitors, most
  days none.
- **A natural pool** afterwards, clear and cold and swimmable, and the one place on
  the trip where he meets other tourists.

**He does the whole thing ill.** He has a cold, can't smell anything, jokes about
what that might mean in March 2022, and nearly doesn't go. His line — *sometimes
you just have to not be a little princess and get on with it* — is on
[do hard things on purpose](/tips/do-hard-things-on-purpose.md).

## The tea factory

They walk into a working factory and are shown round by the duty manager. Harry is
careful to say this was **not an arranged tour**, that the staff spoke little
English, and that he therefore can't give the full process — which is why what
follows is partial.

- **The building dates from 1962.**
- **Roughly five stages**, including **oxidation**.
- **Hand sorting first**: workers pick through the raw green leaf, separating it
  and removing what shouldn't be there.
- **Weighing, then drying**, with the dried leaf dropped down to the next floor.
- **Rolling and blending** through progressively larger machines, old ones and one
  much newer.
- **Further drying**, until it is a very fine flake.
- **Packing by hand** at the end.
- **The workforce here is Tamil-speaking**; his Sinhala gets nowhere.

**Tea is Sri Lanka's biggest export**, per Harry.

## Two smaller things

- **A tea shop on the way**, where he rates the local tea above English breakfast
  tea, and buys cinnamon.
- **He asks when Ceylon became Sri Lanka** and gets two different answers on
  camera — 1948, and something in the 1970s *(from video – unverified; the video
  doesn't settle it, and 1948 is the independence date already recorded
  elsewhere)*.
- **He announces he is leaving the country within the week**, without saying where
  for.

## Key moments

- `[00:30]` Two hours off-road, and no signal.
- `[03:34]` Tea pickers working below the huts.
- `[07:13]` Lunch, in clay pots on a banana leaf.
- `[09:13]` The infinity pool.
- `[12:21]` The smallholding, and the goats.
- `[19:14]` The hike starts, past the naval base.
- `[20:45]` Doing it anyway, while ill.
- `[22:08]` The wasp nest.
- `[25:23]` The drop, and the guide on how few people come.
- `[28:31]` The natural pool.
- `[33:10]` When did Ceylon become Sri Lanka?
- `[34:42]` Inside the tea factory.
- `[39:14]` His caveat: this is not an official tour.

## Extracted pages

- [Sri Lanka](/countries/sri-lanka.md)
- [Sinharaja Forest](/places/sinharaja-forest.md)
- [Mac](/people/mac.md)
- [Ali](/people/ali.md)
- [Do hard things on purpose](/tips/do-hard-things-on-purpose.md)
