Place
Osaka
Japan's commercial city and its street-food capital — a single piece of Kobe beef sushi for about $10, a neon canal, and a sign from 1935 that Harry admits he can't explain the fame of.
Osaka
The commercial city of Japan, known for its food and its nightlife, and the last stop on Harry’s fortnight with Walid.
His first impressions: clean, like everywhere else in Japan, very easy to get around on public transport, and touristy in a way he doesn’t mind. He notes it works well as a base — Nara and Kyoto are both day trips from here.
Dotonbori
The food and entertainment strip, and the reason people come.
- Street food of every kind, arcades, games, and revolving sushi bars.
- The marketing is relentless and, he says, excellent — enormous animated signs and a general weirdness he enjoys.
- A canal, and neon everywhere.
- The Glico running man sign, put up in 1935 for a confectionery company and used to celebrate Japan’s World Cup and baseball successes. Harry admits straightforwardly that he isn’t sure why it is as famous as it is.
Kobe beef sushi
The thing he came for, and an object lesson in menus.
- He orders one piece and is talked up to the premium grade.
- It comes to something like $10 for a single piece — he had expected around $7 and says afterwards he could have had three of the standard for the same money.
- Torched at the counter with a blowtorch, then pressed and folded by the chef, who Harry compares to wrapping a small present.
- Two bites and it’s gone. His verdict: a little salt, a little oil, and the best beef he has eaten. The stall’s own claim, which he repeats, is the finest beef in the world.
The convenience store
He ends the trip in a 7-Eleven asking the staff for their own favourite drinks.
- Zero-calorie ciders and sodas, which he keeps describing as tasting like Christmas.
- Bubble gum flavour, same verdict.
Harry’s tips
- Use Osaka as a base. Nara and Kyoto are both easy days out.
- Ask for the standard grade unless you know what premium costs. One piece of premium Kobe cost him what three ordinary pieces would have.
- Ask shop staff what they drink. It’s how he found everything worth trying in the convenience store.
